Argentiere to Trient Day 2 of the Haute Route
Emotional is the word I am looking for. It was an emotional day being in the Alps for the first time. To be able to experience Chamonix the day before then this traverse with its beauty and challenge on its own brings forth so many feelings. Last to have a partner with you that you are worried about makes it more so. As I look back on the day I had the butterflies from the start with the anticipation of an unknown adventure. When I was growing up the night before I would go skiing I would not be able to sleep thinking about the next day. It does not stop until you get going and the adrenaline focuses into the task at hand.
The morning started with a bus to Argentiere for the beginning of the trek. Finding the trail is sometimes and added challenge that starts the day a bit rough. Even with specific instructions you find yourself second guessing. An added 1/4 mile of figuring it out was all I needed. Then the trek started up and we were making good time. After about 1500 ft in vertical gain through the woods I could tell my partner was struggling a bit. 10 weeks earlier this year we were doing a 15 mile hike and he had a fall. He broke 2 metacarpal bones in his hand and was still healing. During surgery he needed to get 2 plates and about 15 screws put in. It has not stopped him a bit to his detriment at times. He is about 6 ft. 2 in. tall has gray, well almost white hair now and is a walker. He does 10 miles a day regardless. He says, "now that I am retired my health is my job." He is a very stoic person until you get to know him, super competitive and stubborn.
He was doing well on the hike but I could tell it was gonna be a tough day for him. He is amazing at walking and will just plod along but trails and rocks have him a bit uneasy since the fall. Half way up I made a decision to turn back and hike to La Tour. They have a Gondola and chairlift to take you to the col de Baume. I am just getting in stride but I have to make this decision or he will not make the other side which is a long tough hike down.
We hiked back down and over to the lift. Then made our way to the refuge at the top. A good lunch then we got back on the trail. I checked my map and GPS then started walking. After about 800 vertical feet in descent I realized we were on the wrong trail. To go on would add 2 hours and to hike back would be 1 1/2. As we were walking we found a very unused emergency trail back to the main descent and made a choice to go down that route. There was a chance we would get cliffed out but I was hopeful because of the wear on the trail. We made it to about 75 yards from the main route when the trail disappeared in vegetation and growth. We would have to traverse a bit through thick growth then descend a steep section. I made a path for him stomping a trail through the growth. It took about 1/2 hour to make it through falling a number of times and was strenuous. He was not doing well and let me know it. Relieved and tired we made it to the trail where we collected ourselves then got focused for the descent.
One of the most important attributes of being in the wilderness is adaptability and being able to stay calm then think through it. There are so many things that can change, weather, running out of food or water, wrong directions. Etc.
At this point you can see the town of Trient and it is deceiving. We still had about an hour 1/2 to get down. The rest of the way is steep switchbacks and loose rock. I was really enjoying the trail even though it was long and I was taking care of someone. I enjoy the days alone or with companions and feel grateful to just be on the trek.
In Trient we reach our Auberge which has a room and 1/2 board Dinner then Breakfast. It is a bit of a dormitory with shared bathrooms and a basic dinner. We had spaghetti tonight and a busy breakfast with the hikers doing the Trek Du Mont Blanc.
5 Thoughts about this hike:
- Chamonix has to be one of my favorite places and is the perfect place to start a trek. It is an amazing town with tons of charm, restaurants, shops and bars. The people are hearty, adventurous and good natured. The sheer mountains all around the massive Monte Blanc towering over you makes you feel small but comfortable.
- Start early the bus from Chamonix to Argentiere comes about every ½ hour. Try to time that right so you get moving.
- The food at the Col De Balme refuge is excellent! I think most anything would be good after a long hike a long hike up a mountain but it was exceptional here.
- Even though the trails are marked well, check your map and make sure you are on the right track. It is easy to make a mistake when you are so taken back by the beauty around you.
- If you have the time and the legs, take the trail to the Trient Glacier. At the bottom get a picture!
Matthew Tepoorten
